j'ai peut être mal compris, voici son tuto pour le CO
C'est en anglais
1) clean the TB's butterflyes
2) check and/or replace plugs and airfilter
3) fully un-screw the idle knob
4) connect the DIAG wires (under the right underseat panel)
5) key-on: check the TPS Zero position. Adjust if necessary. Slap close the throttle a few times to settle the butterfly fully closed. Disconnect the DIAG wire when done
6) set the bypass brass screws (TB's left side):
-> 51mm ad 54/57mm TB's generally needs different air bypass set-up: so try rear screw to one turn out from closed, front screw 1.5 turns out fronm fully closed for the bigger TB's, 2 turns out rear and 2.5 turns out front for the 51mm tb's.
Anyway that's only a base point. If the bike can't idle with the screws so closed, try openup 'em more. Try to keep the motor un-balanced with the front cylinder stronger than the rear.
7) set the ECU trimpots both to zero position at 12 o'clock (the one near the ECU connectors is for the rear cylinder). Try to run the pots around that position, if you have to go far away on the rich or on the lean side maybe there's a problem elsewere.
start the bike and let it warmup.
9) once warm, the bike should have a nice and regular low idle with no idle knob... so you can start messing with bypass screws and trimpots.
when the coolant temperature rises above 93°C, the ECU enrich the mixture to cooldown, and the cooling fans on makes the injectors slower, enriching too... any adjustment have to be done below 90°C and/or with the fans off (i advice to arrange a big fan in front of the bike, and/or a friend that sprays water on the radiators)
10) TB's bypass screws mainly modify HC value and idle rpm, ECU trimpots mainly work on CO
11) Use the CO ports on the headers and work one cylinder at the time (arrange a "T" union with exclusion valves on the analizer port)
Working on a cylinder will vary the reading on the other too, double check back and forth often.
CO+CO2 has to be about 15%
O2 less than 1% (if you read more than 1% means that where is an air leak in the line). If there's an air leak and you'r not able to correct, use the COcorr data
Set the CO between 3 and 4.5 and HC < 1000ppm.
Rear cylinder has to be a little richer than the front (about 0.5% in CO).
Once happy, check the hi-rpm idle (about 2500 rpm)... readings can vary, generally are leaner than the low idle, but the differences between the two cylinders have to be the same and stable.
12) if you'r not able to bring down the HC value, maybe your motor is burning a little of oil.
13) every motor will tell you how it like to run, do not force it running leaner or richer than the mixture it sound nicely and crisp.
14) tune the motor at low idle, about 1000-1100rpm with non knob, you'll can rise it later.
15) if you occasionally use a noise baffle in the can, remeber that the baffle usually makes the idle mixture leaner than the open-pipe configuration. Tune the bike in the configuration you'll use most, and you'll like to have the better throttle respose and mileage.
